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Like I mentioned in the video it is the specs of each piece and what their maximum speed is that determines the final speed. The weakest link, ie the slowest one, sets the final speed. So it's no good buying super fast, super expensive equipment if all the specs don't match. So it's horses for courses. If you are using Arduino control then you only need slow equipment. I have ordered some ESP-32 boards for another project so it will be interesting to see how they compare. And as always thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching Eduardo. I don't know how hard it is to get things in Chile or how much of a experimenter you are but what you are asking is all controlled by the wire cable. Say you have 8 coils clamped down and unbolt each second one so only 4 are clamped. It is now much softer. Say that the diameter of the cable is 6mm. You swap that over for 8mm and it is harder, 5mm softer, 4mm even softer for the same 8 coils clamped. So the end stiffness is diameter to coil number to coil diameter to coil clamping to clamp spacing to top and bottom plate angles to mass to smoothness of road, etc. Remember earlier when I mentioned being an experimenter, think of it being more of fine tuning. So get what ever kit you want and also buy lengths of different diameter cables and a good parrot type cable cutter, the blades are like this () so the cable doesn't slip out. Now also remember this, the camera will not magically hover in the air. When you brake, momentum will tilt the camera forward. Quick acceleration, tilt back. Fast cornering tilt, left and right. Hit a pothole and a slam down. The stiffness determines how hard it moves and if it bottoms out. Some even stack plates up so each one has different cable setup for different stiffness. So a gimbal is also necessary to get the smoothest S curve shots. They are never straight lines, mother nature takes care of that. And speaking of nature, Chile has been blessed some amazing scenery from the mountains to the deserts. They would even make Mad Max smile. I hope this has helped you Eduardo with some ideas for your production and let us know how you go Amigo. I have got heaps of other videos that people do not watch :-( that may give you some ideas for different projects, Enjoy.

@@TheWizard Thank you for your excellent answer, you clarified all my doubts, even the questions that I had not asked myself, I think that this product would be useful to me since I can modify it. I have a DJI stabilizer and I also recently purchased a suction cup kit, but the recording vibrates a lot, maybe in the future I can get a hydraulic arm or something like that, but that requires more money, or manual skill to create the own. And with respect to Chile, I tell you that I live in the northern side of the country, the desert zone, due to the rains that have occurred last month the "Flowering Desert" season began, you can search for it, but at this moment I am in the south from Chile, visiting family, and I want to take advantage of visiting the "Conguillio Park" and the "Villarica Volcano" which are relatively close, 2 hours. Look for it and who knows if one day you'll want to visit Chile ;).

I just purchased a second hand Tilta Hydra Alien which has the arm. The guy had it for 2 years and never used it. As you go along this path the more you feel you need to get, then that needs something else to get it to work properly with what you have, etc, etc. The path you are on is the Yellow Brick Road and those bricks are made of Gold. Unfortunately that gold is what you have to pay to the sellers of all the equipment you need. Then you find out you need a person to drive the car, another person to control the gymbal (how from inside the car) and to video and to make sure nothing falls off. You have to mount it securely to the car and that usually means that the car panels get dented because of the weight, like someone walking across your car. That's why you see the professional ones with a steel pole cage around the vehicle. Then you need a permit to film in the street as having it hanging off the side of the car is a danger to pedestrians. Then there is the setup time and pulldown time, are you going to leave everything there when you go for lunch, overnight, etc? Then there is the storage space that takes away from your luggage space on the trip, etc. I have several early model gimbals from when they started and a Ronin S but that battery arm is too long and cusses massive inertia on anything so I got a Feiyu Tech Scorp Pro Feiyu F4. What is great about that is it has two batteries in to arms. So you take the control arm off and the gimbal lays flat and still has power. The other arm with the battery is the controller and it becomes a remote control, usable from inside the car. I have it mounted on the idolater on 120x30x1500mm T Slot Ali Extrusion sitting on roof bars. I film wildlife so I can sit inside and video without disturbing them. My best suggestion for you after watching your videos is to first buy a Insta360 X4 360 camera. They are not cheap but are great. And a long 3M+, strong selfie stick for it. Watch some of my Philippines Videos. I have mine poking up from the sunroof and it looks like a drone shot and you tilt to the front or side of the car when you go over a bridge, river, fantastic, any view you want because it's 360 degrees. When you walked across those dangerous bridges you could of just hung it over the edge, or below in the water for a great shot, etc. It can replace a drone for closer shots. By the way what drone do you have? Just google what I have mentioned that I own and paid with my own bricks and let me know what you think. All the best.

Always get the best you can afford of what is around at the time. Unfortunately the second hand equipment market is very different around the world. A lot of us look at America and Europe and just drool at the prices and availability. If something does come up they normally want an arm and leg for it and I am already walking around in circles. The other thing to consider is end use. If you are just a hobbyist and use equipment for just tinkering and non-paying projects, etc then value for money is usually the deciding factor. A cheap piece of crap that dies on you after the job is done and probably won't be used again can be dumped without any qualms. I was once told the story of two people buying shoes. One would by a $100 one and the other just a $10 one. They met again a year or two later and the $100 person hangs it on the $10 person saying, see my shoes have lasted this long and yours have worn out many times. $10 turned and said yeah, but in that time I have had 5 pairs of new shoes in the latest fashion and saved $50 and you a still stuck with old fashioned 2 year old shoes. Like I said always get the best you can afford, not the most expensive. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to subscribe, it's only a press of your mouse button.

Australia mi amigo y gracias por mirar

That's why I keep my channel honest and only review the items I have purchased and show the good, the bad and the fix. That's probably why it is just a backwater channel ;-) Now that was just a simple scam, just false and misleading statements about the product. But here is a scam that is probably the best type. Why? Because you never knew you work scammed. Just think about what would have to be included in the assembly line for this to happen, all the way from the design, purchasing and marketing, etc. If I wasn't the curious type and didn't decided to pull it apart I would never of found it. Even when caught out the supplier still lies and says it was put there for the customers benefit, so it felt heavier. Thanks for watching Ian and enjoy. ruclips.net/video/77HHRTnO-zw/видео.html

Surprisingly since my complaint and refund the Temu seller has reworded its description losing the 45kHz ultrasonic and adding ‘15 Watt high amplitude motor’, so someone there may have a conscious? 😮

These should help you. I got mine over 10 years ago.

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Good Question. It has got to do with manufacturing tolerances and the intended end use. To make something to a tight tolerance is more expensive to make. If a hole is just to take a bolt you can just drill, but if it is for a shaft you may need to ream the bore or even bore it. So the engineers came up with a series of fits. Interference, Push, Sliding, etc and tolerances for the hole Hxx and the shaft Letterxx. A reamer will have the code on it so you know what size the finished reamed hole will be. So a 10mm reamer will not ream a 10mm hole. It will be oversize, the amount will be determined by the fit class. Google British Standard Selected Fits, etc and you will see the charts then you can determine what class yours are. Now for a quick fix. You can replace the ball with larger ones. Or for a simpler quicker one tilt the housing so it is on an angle to each other and the shaft will hit the bottom ball on the left and the top ball on the right (if mounted vertical) etc. Watch my cnc videos and I mention in one of them about twisting the ball nut to take the backlash out, etc. I hope this explanation helps you out and points you in the right direction. And as always thanks for watching.

My friend you will have to find a workshop in your area that might take you on as what we call a "trades assistant" and you help the tradesman with his duties like cleaning, cutting metal, etc. Then slowly as time goes by they trust you to do a bit more as you become smarter and experienced then you get moved up to what we call a 2nd class machinist. It doesn't mean you do 2nd class work, just that you never served an apprenticeship and so won't get your papers. In some countries that matters for work, others not. All the best for your future.

The Machine Shop is opposite Dumaguete Airport so you could ask there if the ytake on trainees, etc. In Australia you do a four year Apprenticeship with your employer. Low wages in exchange for training to become a tradesman.

The Machine Shop is opposite Dumaguete Airport

Sorry, No I don't fix turbos.

Sorry Bro back in Oz. Ebay for small pieces and do a google search for Metal Merchants if you want a lot.

I have other styles of wipers: ruclips.net/video/GLeStDVUGVU/видео.html ruclips.net/video/2zElew_9l6M/видео.html They all eventually wear out. How long depends on usage, swarf size and sharpness, how fast, lubrication and how well you clean, etc. My designs also depend how easy are they to replace or do you have to pull the whole machine down to get at them. Polymorphic are the quickest and easiest to shape but do get softer as the the temps get hotter. You could always use two styles. One to push off the bigger and sharper chunks protecting the inner poly one to wipe off the grit and dust, etc. Any style is better than having none.

My friend it could be many reasons. Does line voltage match the motor? Is it 3 phase? Is it 50 or 60Hz? Are the start or run capacitors any good? Are the motor windings any good? Do the bearings run smooth. Is the Horsepower Kilowatts enough for the cutting load you put on it? Are drive belts loose or worn out, etc, etc? As you can see there are a few things that you and your electrician need to check out. I hope this helps as I am now back in Australia so can't drop over to Marinduque for a visit. Thanks for watching and hopefully subscribing.

@@TheWizard thank you sir.

It's certainly a pain when you buy a bit of equipment and it only half does the job. In that whole video series most of it didn't play well with each other and I had to modify it to get it to do what I wanted. That's why I put up videos so that people can see a solution and if they are not able, get their local guy to do it for them. And as always, thanks for watching, I need them ;-)

I am back home now but will put more Philippines Negros videos up soon when I finish some other projects. Thanks for watching.

Exactly, if it does the job.

You may not of noticed but I attached the runner upside down to keep it clean from the flying spatter and also to stop getting your skin caught. You can use 50mm RHS, etc or bolted directly to your welding table, etc but I found you need an adjustable height range of around 50mm to cover sheetmetal to RHS so just some cheap threaded bolts should do that. Hope to see you using one in the future.

Glad I could help

You are so welcome!

Correct. If you are comparing stated official isolated readings then they must be at 1 metre. If, however you are just doing a comparison in the same setup then the readings are relative to each other. If you measure at say 0.5m for both and one is twice the reading of the other it will still be twice the reading at 1M. It will always be twice as loud as the other no matter where you stand.

www.machineryhouse.com.au/G1975?From=Search&s=TM-U3%20 2019 $1300 2022 $1600 Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe as I need the numbers to motivate me to make more videos.

Thanks for watching and subscribing jenwen. The controller is mounted to the lathe in its box. It is now redoing and modifying the rest of the lathe to suit and figuring out the best, easiest and cheapest way to do it. I planned to get closed loop steppers with it's driver in July, nil stock until a few days ago and the price had jumped 30%. Then they don't have a Z signal so ordered ABZ rotary encoders and they took 80 days to be delivered. Covid is a real killer, especially to the timeline of your projects. So I do other projects whilst waiting, and hoping the views and subs go up to get me more motivated. There are other videos coming when there is sufficient progress. If you are planning to swap to this controller I would suggest getting their complete kits, wiring, motors, etc and it is then basically plug and play. That route was way too expensive for me so I am doing it the long haul way, but you learn so much along the way. Have a look at my other 300 videos and you might find them interesting and full of tips. Enjoy

Muchas gracias amigo por mirar y suscribirte. Mantenga Covid sasfe en 2022.

Hey Joe, great to hear from you again. I hope covid is not giving you too many hassles. The delivery times for me have blown out to 3 months. You loose all enthusiasm by the time they finally arrive. Keep save and have a great Christmas and an ever better new year.

Don't forget to sunscribe :-) Config > Input Signals > Index > Enabled > Port # > Pin Number > Active Low (suit your board) when you have a spindle sensor with just one slot or mark. On the Arduino Hall Sensor Module set the Output to Digital so the signal is On/Off. Not to Analogue which is more like a sine wave.

@@TheWizard Thanks so much for your answer. how i set the Output to Digital so the signal is On/Off in my module? What do you mean? My module its this KY-003 estándar Hall Módulo Sensor magnético. and the signal out put its digital yes

which breakboard do you use? iI use usb bl mach 3.3v

ruclips.net/video/FwkXuyyZooI/видео.html

Now ruclips.net/p/PLB-x69F51YWa3eaUTFQhnoa-Kyt3AmJs8

Glad you like it Legend. Now I expect to see it in the photos you send from now on.

Correct Nibato. It also depending on how the God's are looking down on you. The injected bush may have flashing, burrs, seems, scratches, etc left on and its tolerance on the OD and ID. The quality and the tolerance of the linear bush block as some are machined and cheaper ones left as die cast. The rod diameter (OD) also varies and cheap ones are usually under size. So you need to mix and match your set to get the best fit on all. If the tolerances are one way it may end up too tight and the other too loose. You are after the Goldilocks moment, "ah Just Right". And as always thanks for watching Nibato.

Hey Legend, glad you liked it. There are 288 videos full of WIZdom just waiting for you at ruclips.net/user/thewizard Enjoy ;-)

Hi Tony, thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe so as utube pushes the video further up the food chain so it will be recommended to more people, thanks. You have your DRO sitting there and SDM's are just like the buttons on the old VCR, you really never used them since you got it. Then one day you learn what they do and you wonder why you never used them in the first place. If you find you are resetting your vice datum after each job or you have to get the calculator out to workout where the next hole goes then SDM's are for you. You are right, play the video each time you are on your mill with a new job and one day the penny will drop, and, as The Wizard always loves to say, you will be Taken to the Next Level.

Thanks for that Joe. Covid lockdowns certainly put a spanner in the works.

Thanks for watching and getting in contact and don't forget to subscribe to make more people aware. I have a few questions that you might be able to help me with so I will email James at alliyun soon,

No PC software. Don't forget to subscribe.

@@TheWizard can you make a video showing how to set steps per rev and all that how to get the machine to move the right amount please?

On the back of the controller is a D9 connector labelled "CN9 SP Encoder" that the spindle encoder D9 plugs straight in to (matching wiring of course). By the way I am not recommending this, just showing it as consideration. It is not plug and play and can become quite involved. The easiest, but much more expensive solution is to buy their completed setup with servo motors, controllers, relay cards, etc, etc and you just plug it together. I got the bare bones controller for two reasons, the cost for the machine it was going on and the main one that you would of noticed if you have watched my almost 300 videos is that I like to tinker.

@@TheWizard I’m using geckos 320x and I’ve got them moving with amt encoders and the old SEM motors , I’m converting an old 1983 lathe that had Anilam control Appreciate you talking to me 👍🏼 Just wondering after it’s plugged in do you have to make adjustments on the controller

Hopefully you have subscribed as it doesn't say you have yet. If not then this is the last bit of info. It is not appropriate to tell you how to setup the controller at the moment as when and if you do get one the manual that comes with it will be suitable for that model. I have the 3 axis model but it makes more sense to get the 2 axis one, and cheaper. For your tacho, these will give you some alternatives. As always thanks for watching and subscribing. ruclips.net/video/TCnHAa7Ufno/видео.html ruclips.net/video/aey2ZLl0NL4/видео.html Watch more of my videos full of WIZdom on my channel as they all have tips that can help you with your project.

ruclips.net/p/PLB-x69F51YWa3eaUTFQhnoa-Kyt3AmJs8 ruclips.net/video/xAIUc2DItkU/видео.html Don't forget to subscribe

Hey Jimmy you need to subscribe first and then I give you the answer. I need more subscribers as people are not not spreading the word fast enough.

@@TheWizard I have already subscribed

Then Jimmy you are entitled to the keys to the kingdom. My apologies, I did check but utube doesn't make it very easy to see a list of subscribers. They are always pushing their popular guys to the top of ever list they show you. So as promised here is the info requested. This is from the Mach3 Mill Manual. Basically you use a quadrature (A+ A- B+ B-) encoder and set it up in the Config > Ports & Pins > Encoder/MPG tab. You can only use it as a MPG. Sure you can have a glass scale connected but you can only display that in a Mach3 DRO and it will do nothing else so why would you waste the limited and precious pins on something that you could use the DRO readout that came with the kit with the glass scales (cheaper that that way) for the same result? Rotary encoders can be interfaced (via the parallel port input pins) to Mach3 as Manual Pulse Generators (MPGs). 5.3.5 Defining encoder inputs (Config > Ports & Pins > Encoder/MPG tab) The Encoder/MPGs tab is used to define the connections and the resolution of linear encoders or Manual Pulse Generators (MPGs) used for jogging the axes. If the encoders count the wrong way just swap the pins allocated for A and B inputs. 5.3.5.1 Encoders The Counts per unit value should be set to correspond to the resolution of the encoder. Thus a linear scale with rulings at 20 microns produces a count every 5 microns (remember the quadrature signal), that is 200 counts per unit (millimetre). If you have Native units set as inches the it would be 200 x 25.4 = 5080 counts per unit (inch). The Velocity value is not used. 4.11 Linear (glass scale) encoders Mach3 has four pairs of inputs to each of which an encoder with quadrature outputs can be connected (typically these might be "glass scale" encoders - see figure 4.15. Mach3 will display the position of each of these encoders on a dedicated DRO. These values can be loaded from and saved to the main axis DROs. Again my apologies Jimmy and keep safe.

Yes, it should.

But i don't know how to replace It till camera & tilt up /down working, there is no tutorial on yt 😂

The more you have the more you can do Aaron. But it's not what you have but rather what you do with it. All the videos on this channel are designed to take you to the next level. To put the Cherry on the Top on your projects. View all of the videos and you will become a better person. You will become powered by CNC4A.

Hi Karl, thanks for watching. I am very busy these days on various other projects and as I mention in my videos I put the idea out there and if it gets 1,000's of views and 1,000's of subscribers, which isn't asking much, someone just needs to share it on a forum, etc, then I know there is enough interest for me to put the effort in and go back and make more. The other video I put up at the same time, Arduino Must Have Code ruclips.net/video/YQNbwI1r3A0/видео.html seemed to have a title that I thought would attract more viewers but it hasn't so far. So I will just keep devoting the grey matter to the current projects and as I already know the previous ones I have no need to go back to them if there is not a high demand to do so. There is nothing extra as it's just the two standard libraries, Wire.h and LiquidCrystal_I2C.h, you use with a I2C LCD with 4 wires which, I prefer these days. Again, thanks for watching.

I need motivation, like 10K views and 10K subscribers, not much to ask really.

Thank you

My pleasure that I could be helpful for you. It's great news. Which course are you doing as in my other 300 videos ruclips.net/user/thewizardvideos there might some tips and tricks and techniques that could help you and your colleagues? It would be helpful if you could spread the word about my channel so as to help others. Enjoy your studies and keep safe.

Kuldeep Shekhawat Peter is a very knowledgeable man. I wish he made more machining videos 👍🍻

@@TheWizard sure

I will when my subscribers beat 10K.